We landed with a crash and a bang into a chaotic city…..our introduction to Thailand:
Chaos, noise, heat, stickiness, movement, madness, mayhem, busyness and bluster, hawkishness, yet a strange politeness.
Bangkok is a great example of using and reusing every inch of urban space for many different functions, mostly selling things and services! People, bikes, tuk-tuks and stalls fill empty spaces with an ultra-fast osmosis process. Not a Cartesian 2-dimensional process, but viaducts in the sky, multi-layered and I think you can go to the n-the dimension in Bangkok, where anything is possible.
We ventured out to Chatuchak market via the cool (in all meanings of the term) BST or sky train, and feasted on the smells, colour, madness, mayhem, diversity, eclectic narrow lanes and passages between stalls. It is reportedly (thanks to our Lonely Planet guide!) one of the biggest markets in the world. Bizarre bazaar!
Tadhg was pleased to get a Barcelona football rig. Our bartering skills were put into action! At first, the vendor wanted 1,000 baht for the rig. We thought that a bit pricey, so said so, and were about to walk away. He could see Tadhg’s disappointment, and asked how much we would be willing to pay. After a whispering ceann comhairle amongst ourselves, we said 500baht. The rig was sold. Happy Tadhg, happy vendor, happy parents…..until we found the same rig in a different stall for 280baht. Vendor won 1-0, with no extra time.
Ilona invested in a fan. She found the market cramped, sticky and smelly!
Tuk-tuk or meter taxi? Now that is the question! Hawks soliciting business, negotiating price. Everyone in Thailand works or earns their own living, however meagre. There is no social safety net, besides family which leads to a certain industriousness.
We met up with Waw, my old flatmate and good friend from Aberdeen days. Last time we met was in 2005, when I was travelling through Bangkok with a babe in arms (Ilona). This time, roles are reversed, and we got to meet Waw’s baby Alexander (or Sandie). I also finally met Andy, Waw’s Scottish husband. Waw introduced us to Thai food – she knew what she was ordering! Ilona loved the sweet sticky rice dessert with mango and coconut cream. We also found space for some cake! Great to catch up again, and the last of our friends we have planned to meet up with on our travels. Meeting old friends has really made the last 7 weeks really special, and a great way to get under the surface of a place. People are what make places in my estimation!
We experienced our first monsoon…..the rains came down at 7pm sharp, accompanied by thunder and lightening. About ten or fifteen men appeared and erected a tunnel like shelter between the (newly opened and exclusive EmQuartier) shopping centre and the BST station, to keep shoppers dry. I wonder what they work at when it’s not raining?
……we saw lots of service people and labour intensive business: from sellers of food on street corners to hotel staff, concierges, tuk-tuk drivers….
We took a boat trip up the Chao Phraya river, stopping off at the flower market, Wat Pho (reclining Buddah) and onto Khao San Road. By that point the kids were in heat overdrive and not really coping.
The most satisfying part of the day (for the kids) was jumping into the roof pool at our hotel, where they cooled off.
We spent another less adventurous day in and around the hotel – getting the kids to do some homework, letting them spend hours cooling off in the pool, while either Daniel or myself ducked out on our own to enjoy wonderful foot massages, or traditional Thai massages. Bliss! All not milk and honey though, as it is difficult to keep Ilona and Tadhg on track! Ilona doth protest much…..in the form of a sit down when she feels too tired, has sore feet or is too hot! Inexplicably, I ended up giving her a sticky piggyback in the searing heat and almost total humidity (much to the amusement of all whom we passed by), a strange sight no doubt, given that she is nearly as tall as me…..and in the prevailing heat seemed to weigh a tonne!
I am becoming an expert in goading, coaxing and downright bribing, to keep the show in motion!
By contrast, our first visit to a Wat (temple) was the impressive Wat Pho. There is such serenity in these spiritual oases in the city. Beauty built on a generosity and sacrifice given by Thai people to their Buddhist religion. On every street corner, in front of every building and boat there are offerings given to Buddah, in the form of flowers, fruit, drink. Such reverence and respect, adding to the beauty and wonder of this country.
