Mistory Hystery

With all certainty, this much I know: There is so much I don’t understand about Hanoi!

I am trying to pick out clues, decipher hidden codes, interpret the visual cues, glean from historical facts, tracts, texts, conversations and stories…..but I am left feeling there is so much hidden under layers of complexity.

Some Overly Simplified Observations:
1. Buildings of significance are painted yellow:

2. UNESCO heritage sites herald the rich historic past, civilisations and dynasties I have yet to learn so much about (Cham, Funan, Oc Eo…) somewhat making a mockery of the underdevelopment of the country in the 19th and 20th centuries (but colonisation and globalisation of ideas mid 20th century have a lot to answer for!).

3. The haphazard urban form speaks of shambolic opulence, remnants of a more prosperous past are pincered between monolithic communist and ad hoc corrugated mushrooming structures, but which create a dizzying tapestry of buildings.

Ilona and I found the sweetest hidden space though, a charming oasis in the madness (it felt we found Carlos Zafon’s Cemetery of Forgotten Books!).

4. The current country is as old as I am (well, as young as Daniel is, to be pedantic about it! – 1975), and emerged through a massive series of revolution, struggle and war…..all of which are not evident on the surface of Vietnamese society, where animosity, anger, aggressive behaviour or any sort of confrontation (especially regarding money) is avoided, and indeed frowned upon – a certain gentle harmony is considered the societal ideal. This is fascinating, as for example, history as taught in Ireland schools dwelled on the overwhelming unfairness of British colonial rule in Ireland (hence institutionalised from a very early age, making it difficult to forget or forgive, leaving a legacy of ‘victimisation’, which leads people to be unhappy with their lot…..and non acceptance….linked to the modernisation idea that things should improve). I have definitely changed my demeanour while being here….even while firmly refusing something (normally someone selling something), I find myself doing so with a genuine smile…..whereas normally I would do it with a sour or scornful disposition to try to reinforce the authority by which I have reached my decision! Subtle, but an amazing difference in outcome: I get a reciprocated smile back, with a friendly nod, and no more hounding….(alternatively it could be seen that I am a smiling simpleton….not worth trifling with!…..and I also have gotten ripped off – my 14,000 times tables are not my strongest, and while I am totting up- abacus style trying to use fingers as a substitute – I seem to hand over money willy-nilly…. By the time I do my sums, the vendor has high-legged it off!

The Soviet styled communist buildings and planned open public squares for displaying military might remind me of areas of East Berlin. The Ho Chi Mihn mausoleum and museum were impressive (although we were mustered out of he museum at 12 noon – they have strict lunchtime closing, and they brushed all the pointy-head museum goers out with a broom of a collective loud voiced ushers).

5. The evolution of politics is complicated here: the juncture and influence of India and China, the Kingdoms of Funan and Champa; early trading links with Persia, China, India and the Mediterranean leaves a long history of looking outward; Disharmony with the pincering and constant threat of the great Chinese empire through out the centuries, colonisation by France, skirmishing and avoiding a squeeze by the Japanese after WWII, American intervention and the manoeuvring of the country between global actors in a bigger ideological mid-20th century battle, the split between the north (Hanoi) and the south (Saigon), the rise of communism/socialism through Ho Chi Minh – all constant struggle and turmoil which at the moment seems to have dissipated (although censorship and tight control over media/communication reportedly prevails). We haven’t met any/enough locals to discuss any of this, so it is all supposed observation! I found the presentation of (English) material in the National Museum of Vietnamese History quite interesting in terms of its narrative (or austere lack of it).

6. Lots of people want to practice English on us, especially around the Hoam Kiem Lake – Ilona was approached by a 10 year old Vietnamese girl, and they chatted for about an hour (while I chatted to her mother, and then a student also approached us). They were very keen to hear our thoughts on Vietnam, though only having been here a week, I can hardly qualify to give any. I dared not tell them that I thought Hanoi is the nuttiest place that I have ever been to. It’s chaos….and I think that if it were Daniel and I by ourselves (sans enfants), we would dive in and embrace it’s menacing disorder. However, we have found that trying to navigate through a week here in a sane manner with two kids traipsing behind us has been one of the most challenging phases of parenthood!

7. I have done a lot of reflection during the week! Both photographically and on a more esoteric level. Introspection has made me realise that I do depend a lot on order and routines to function effectively…..

8. One saving grace has been the good coffee!


(And both Ilona and Tadhg revelled in a precarious pillion passage on a motorbike…..my nerves were in tatters).

9. In answer to the rhetorical question “back soon?”….I think the answer is “hardly Charley”. I found it quite stressful overall.

10. A week is a long time in pol…Hanoi!